The big day finally arrived, and after watching D-hai churn out of control in yesterday's typhoon, we were all eager to catch the post-storm window- hoping to score some big clean waves from the residual swell in the water.
Waking up, I was surprised to see the ocean almost as big as yesterday, though a bit less violent and more organized. Still, solid 12-15 foot faces were breaking everywhere in the middle of the beach, and I watched twice as Brendan tried to paddle out before turning around and riding the whitewash back into the shore (heck, I wasn't even about to try).
Thinking the day was spent, I walked with Darci down to the far left side of the beach, and discovered that the swell was still large, but there was a channel that made the paddle-out a virtual cakewalk. Newly enthused, I ran back to the Wave Bar and grabbed my board- on the way I recruited a few of the Russian surfers to join me, as they were trying to surf the whitewash in the middle of the beach with great effort and little reward.
What awaited us can only be described as perfect waves. Considering where we are, to get solid 8-10 ft faces with clean shoulders is almost unthinkable. I scored a large right almost as soon as I got into the water, and the feeling of dropping down a steep face was a welcome reminder of the waves I'd left behind in California. I probably scored the wave of the day on a very big left that pitched up and sent me flying down the line as I set my back rail and accelerated past a giant slab of whitewater that nearly capped my head. Great day for all- Brendan scored the biggest wave of his life, and I'm pretty sure what the Russians were pulling into was at the top of their personal wave bests.
After surfing the outside for about 3 hours and picking off a handful of big waves, I took a rest and then went after the reform inside, which was throwing 3-4 ft barrels with great shape and speed. I surfed until I couldn't move my arms anymore and my body seemed to be out of sweat. My feet were cramping up into claws as were my calves.
Walking back up to the Wave Bar, I saw Brendan and the Russians downing a few beers- each of us with the same stupid-grin of a surfer satiated with exhaustion from a day of fulfilling rides. There's no arguing, that when the swell is big, life is good. Glad to see D-hai handle the surf this big too.
Let Me Feed You..
