Hainan Surf Blog

I spent yesterday in the gym and feel noticeably stronger for it. Dragged Darci and her parents back out to Matoes, and saw it was slightly bigger than the day before. Not to worry, I brought along a second board- a 6'5" that had been given to me by a random American tourist during the summer, and was primed for taking on the sizable sets that were marching in from the open sea.

Somehow I managed to strip my fin key while switching the fins from my shortie to the longer board, and thought my session was done. Darci's dad came up with the brilliant idea to file down the end of the key to the un-stripped neck of the key, and within 5 minutes of scraping the tool, as well as my knuckles, against one of the granite boulders that define the coastline, was able to complete the fin-swap.

For my efforts I was rewarded with an easy entry off the rocks, and 3 perfect 8 foot waves back-to-back-to-back: about 150-200 yard rides, with plenty of room for cutbacks, and racy sections that reminded me of surfing Steamer's back in Cali- only with no one else out. I could have easily surfed more, but was exhausted from the long paddle back out, and needed to spend some time with Darci's folks before they went home.

I look forward to the challenges this place will bring.